May 13
Still having issues with the diving here. I feel like a complete idiot. It is not very buoyant here….and I am over-weighted, so I slammed into a few things….not a good thing to do on a reef. Shit! I have felt bad about it today…I have not adjusted to the diving in Tofo…it is true that the conditions are not easy, though the sea was very friendly today. Sometimes I feel like I have bitten off more than I can chew (so to speak), but I am managing. I cannot heave myself into the zodiac from the water, and I hate that. I have had two back surgeries, and in 2000 my lower spine was basically rebuilt, and I am able to do activities now that I could not do for years, but I can feel the weakness of my left leg pretty keenly at times. Tofo is a young town,one and although back surgery is not an age thing, I do not want to be so far below their abilities that I stand out any more than I have to. The 20s and 30s crowd is big here, mostly English or Australian, and they are dressed like the surfers in SoCal.
The native population here is altogether different. Mozambique suffered through years of civil war and the atrocities were numerous. Most live on the coast, or near the coast, as the interior of Mozambique is still landmined. In a country where subsistence can be difficult, one doesn’t run into educated individuals, or those who care at all about the environment or sustainability. There are no doctors in town, no one to help if you fall ill. People here have a low life expectancy, in the 40s for men, 50s for women, so you don’t see old people very much.
On a happy note, I swam with a Giant Manta Ray today! So, so beautiful! I also saw my first frogfish. They are absolutely marvelous! Now that I have seen one, maybe I’ll be able to spot one in Cozumel. Saw a loggerhead turtle today, a crocodile fish (freaky!), tons of seastars of all different colors and sizes, 4 gigantic lionfish swimming around…..a very cool dive if I could figure out how not to over inflate my BCD (dive jacket) and could maintain some buoyancy. I am very pissed at myself as I am sure you can tell. I did take my Dramamine today and had no seasickness. After the dive I had a bite to eat at Albatroz, a restaurant just up the hill from the house. They have coke with ice. Ahhhh. You have no idea how good a coke with ice can taste here! I took a nice long walk along the beach, did a bit of yoga, and now I am at the house, very tired. Tomorrow I learn to identify whale sharks on the database, do an ocean safari, and then dive. This coming weekend I am going on a trip to the Bazaruto Archipeligo with some of my house mates.
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