Travels with Tam

Boulders Beach

June 16, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

Outside of Cape Town is Boulders Beach, a beautiful spot where a South African Penguin Colony lives. They are the cutest …birds you can imagine! They are birds, but of course, they don’t fly in the air, they fly underwater! The penguins are nesting at this time of year…I had no idea that penguins made little dens and sat on their eggs. These little babies are brown and furry! We always hear about the Emperor Penguins, but most penguins do not live in such arctic conditions. These penguins are known as Jackass Penguins. I’m not kidding. They are called Jackass because of the “heehaw” sound they make! They really do sound like donkeys! We walked among them, saw their nests and their young, then walked on the beach where a small group of them came out and swam. I sat near the water and enjoyed watching them in their little tuxedos! It was a cloudy day, and “winter” (to them) as well, so we pretty much had them to ourselves. The beach was pristine, with huge boulders (hence the name Boulder’s Beach), and tidal pools filled with sea stars and crabs and other little critters. Incredible experience!

Wes and Ally...bouldering — Wes and Ally…bouldering

We also met a new animal, the Rock Hyrax or “dassie”. Strangely enough, their closest relative is the elephant! They look like rodents….they are absolutely adorable. I’m sure you will agree that Ally took some wonderful photographs of them.

The Rock Hyrax, or “Dassie”!

We stopped for lunch in Simon’s Town where Ally took a bit of a tumble (fell on her ass, actually). It is usually me, but Ally took the fall on the continent of Africa! (Of course, I have fallen on Africa too….just not on that trip!) Afterward we went up Table Mountain to see the view….endless vistas…

Another beautiful day in South Africa!

Hermanus and a “go around” in Cape Town

June 14, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

Hermanus, small town in South Africa, known for Whale Watching.

Yesterday was travel day….we left Botswana at 10a.m. and did the border crossings again into Zimbabwe and to the Victoria Falls airport. From there we flew to Johannesburg, then caught another flight into Cape Town. I think when it comes to Africa, every flight has to go through Joburg! Our flight was VERY interesting heading into Cape Town. As you may or may not know, the cape is known as the Cape of Storms, because storms form with no warning … as we began our descent a line of squalls quickly came up. The pilot came on the PA system and announced that we might have to do a “go around”, a common maneuver at the Cape Town airport. The plane tries to land, but if the squall comes in at a certain speed, the plane must pull up suddenly (no matter how close to landing) and then “go around” before taking another “bash” at landing! I’m not sure “bash” was the right word to use in this case….Yes, we experienced a go around….wow! The landing gear is deployed, you are almost touching down and boom…the plane suddenly pitches up and accelerates and you are pushed back in your seat! Kind of like the plane in the movie AIR FORCE ONE. It took us 45 minutes to land. Most exciting! We then rented a car and drove to Hermanus (Randy is the MAN, cannot believe he can drive on the left and shift with his left!). We expected a charming hotel on the coast….we arrived late and were a bit surprised at the tiredness of the hotel…our rooms had no heat and there were towels under the windows to keep out the howling wind and rain. We were so tired we didn’t protest, just slept. We didn’t arrive at the hotel until midnight. Things always look brighter in the morning… the hotel has a long ago charm to it (a little “longer ago” than anticipated), and we were shown to better rooms with sitting areas and balconies as the view is quite magnificent even in the rain (cliffs, pounding ocean, mountains barely visible through the mist). We are taking a day to have our laundry done, catch up on sleep and reading and Internet, and watching the weather change every 15 minutes. We are hoping to see the whales out there, but it is very rough and we have not seen any yet. As I write Wes is reading, Ran is working, Ally is sleeping, and I am journaling. The ocean is feral as the South Africans would say!

Chillin’ in Cape Town

The hotel in Hermanus was so cold and miserable that we came to Cape Town a day early. What a beautiful city, surrounded by ocean and mountains and islands. We are staying in Bantry Bay (what was known as Botany Bay in history), at the Protea President (which was opened by Nelson Mandela) with an incredible view of the ocean. What is a Protea? Well, Protea is a botanical name and the English common name of a genus of South African flowering plants, sometimes also called sugarbushes. Remember, Protea President Hotel is on what used to be Botany Bay.

Ran has been ill and unable to enjoy Cape Town today, but we are hoping he will be able to join us for dinner tonight on the waterfront. The kids and I explored Cape Town, going to the aquarium where I had a bit of fun, Nobel Square where Nobel Peace Prize Winners are immortalized: Albert Luthuli, former president of the African National Congress, Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, last president of the ‘old South Africa’ FW de Klerk and the legendary Nelson Mandela, affectionately called by his clan name, Madiba, by many South Africans. We explored the V & A waterfront and shopping areas. Cape Town is quite cold, winter in Africa is just starting.

Nobel Square: founders of democracy in South Africa

Ah, Randy did feel better and was able to join us for a lovely dinner at Quay Four, a fabulous restaurant on the waterfront. I can heartily recommend it! Also, at the Haagen Daaz (of course, South Africa has heavy Dutch influence) they have a wonderful concoction: Midnight Cookies and Cream! Chocolate Ice Cream and Oreos. Heavenly!!!!

A gorgeous city, reminiscent of San Francisco, but Cape Town is marred by the abject poverty of the shanty towns that ring it. I have never seen anything like it….miles of “homes” and “townships” made of scrap metal. It is horrifying. It has been 15 years since the end of apartheid, but there is a very long way to go for true equality. A failing economy is not helping. Our country didn’t have true universal suffrage until 1965, with the passage of the Voting Rights Act, so it is understandable that in 15 years things in South Africa are not perfect….but the sight of the miles of shantytowns will stay with us.

The Wonders of Chobe

June 13, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

We left Zimbabwe for Botswana on the 21^st. An interesting trip! We drove to the border where we had to exit Zimbabwe’s immigration station, then we drove to the Botswana immigration building which was a true eye opener. It was a tiny, tiny little building, jammed with people, and I won’t comment on the restroom except to say you would not want to use it. Everything was very primitive, and it was sadly apparent in the room that people from Botswana do not have access to daily showers.

The road to Chobe was riddled with potholes and donkeys and goats and warthogs were everywhere. Upon arrival at the Chobe Safari Lodge we chose our activities from a list of possibles and got ready for our first Chobe game drive. The Chobe National Park is on the Chobe River which separates Namibia and Botswana. It is known for huge elephant populations and justly so. The number of elephants is about 60,000 plus. They travel in big families, 30 to 50 at a time. The game in Chobe is plentiful and yet the elephants are so populous they are destroying the vegetation in the park. Botswana wants to “cull” them (kill them), but it is very difficult to do. Elephants are extremely intelligent and emotional with LONG memories which are transmitted generation to generation. The park cannot allow elephants to remember, and pass down, that humans hurt them. There are too many elephants in the area, but I am glad they will remain.

We saw towers of Giraffe!!! Ah, my favorites, they are so long and elegant! We hired a private boat to take us on the river and Ally took the most incredible hippo photographs. There were so many, I cannot even guess how many there were.

They were in the water, in the grasses, in the mud….just everywhere. The boat we hired is an air boat, very small and if a hippo really wanted us, there would be no problem at all. There are crocodiles on the banks and in the water.

We saw Sable Antelope (very rare find, few left) and they are incredibly gorgeous. Their horns are magnificent. We saw kudos, impala, elephants, and even water buffalo. Also, monitor lizards and tons of baboons. We glimpsed the rare Red Lechwe, a tiny water antelope, and a Sitatunga, another antelope type creature with great spiraling horns. We also saw a couple of lions snoozing under some bushes, but it was very hard to get a photo.

We saw elephants, and more elephants. We watched a couple of young males “fight”, and a couple of the younger males made some threatening movements toward our open air vehicle. Quite imposing….we certainly did not want to piss off elephants, so we slowly backed away. There were several young males around, letting us know we were not exactly welcome. We also saw elephants dusting themselves, snorting up huge amounts of dust and then spraying the dust all over their bodies. Dusting keeps them cool, serves as a sunscreen, and keeps insects away. In Chobe they also visit mineral licks, or salt licks, and eat the dirt which is rich in minerals and sodium. Scientists hypothesize that elephants need to supplement sodium, which is lacking in the water and in their food supplies. Many other animals, including giraffe and zebra, also visit the mineral licks.

The lodge was nice, but the food mediocre and served buffet style. YUCK. Our room overlooks the Chobe River, and the courtyards are full of birds, warthogs, and monkeys. One woman wanted to pet the “wildebeest”, but I advised her not to. I mean, warthogs have some major tusk action going on I didn’t want to see anyone gored! We loved sitting on the balconies and watching the wildlife. Warthogs snort just like pigs do!

Please go to the Africa photo page for more Chobe photographs! There is just no way to put it all in a blog entry. Chobe is dense with wildlife!

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe is the Home of the Smoke that Thunders

June 11, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

smoke that thunders, the smoke that thunders, victoria falls, zambezi — The Smoke that Thunders

The smoke that thunders! We loved our trip to Zimbabwe, and particularly enjoyed visiting Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The falls are known as “the smoke that thunders”; it is twice the size of Niagara Falls, and there is so much mist and fog you cannot see the entire falls at once. It is like a rainforest, green and leafy and lush. Rainbows are present beneath you on sunny days, rainbows within rainbows! If you were in a plane or helicopter you could see the entire area, and if you dare to jump into Devil’s Pool you can really get a view! You have to be in Zambia to do it though, on Livingstone Island. Check out how awesome the view is! http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=yfp-t-656-s&va=devil%27s+pool+victoria+falls [Read more…] about Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe is the Home of the Smoke that Thunders

Walking with Lions

June 9, 2013 By Tam Warner 7 Comments

June 19: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Today we flew from Joburg to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The airport in Victoria Falls is small. Small? Very Small, no computers, nothing technological. We are no longer in 21^st century South Africa. I’m pretty sure Botswana will be the same.

We were greeted and transported to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge where we were met by the Zulu Chief. Baboons and warthogs and velvet monkeys are everywhere! In town as well as on the grounds of the Lodge. There are no fences keeping any animal out of any place. The lodge is beautiful with a stunning view and great balconies which we must close when we are not in our rooms, or when we have food in the room. The monkeys and baboons come in to eat any food you may have. So we were told, and I heard the truth of it: the guest above us began screaming shortly after we arrived because she opened some potato chips and immediately had guests…the monkeys swung onto the balcony and into her room…took her chips and all other food while she bolted out the door. I have advised Randy and the kids to keep the balcony doors closed!

We had a free afternoon, so we went to Lion Encounters, an African Impact program teamed with ALERT that is repopulating the bush with lions. Lion populations are down 80% in the last 30 years which endangers the African ecosystem. ALERT and Lion Encounters take lion cubs born into captivity and allow small numbers of visitors to interact with them (for a fairly large fee) until they are sexually mature, around 15 months.

When they are sexually mature they are moved into phase II, released in a pride into a large enclosure where they live as a wild pride. They are closely monitored for research purposes but at this stage there is no human contact or intervention. Stage 3 is when the pride is relocated to a larger area, where they will spend the rest of their lives. This area is big enough to have many different species in it, including competitive ones. For stage 4, the cubs born and raised in Stage 3 can be relocated into those areas of Africa that need them the most. We are happy to aid in that endeavor while having the experience of walking with lions in the wild. Alexandra, our cat lover, was beside herself with anticipation….lion cubs! I was expecting small cubs, or maybe a little bigger, but We WALKED WITH, and among, LIONS. One male and one female, not yet sexually mature….but very close! They are huge. They are beautiful beyond description. We touched them, walked in the bush with them, watched them, took photographs, and were completely inspired by them. We are all overwhelmed by the experience. Did you know that young lions have spots, and the spots disappear with sexual maturity? I never knew that until today. I cannot even begin to describe the wonder, the excitement (tinged with fear, certainly) of being close to, and walking in the bush with, these young lions….and nine rangers! Photos are worth a thousand words.

Don't pull a lion's tail! — Don’t pull a lion’s tail!

Tonight at dinner we watched a herd of elephants make their way to the waterhole in the distance. Everywhere we have been so far has been a dream come true…the food has been excellent, the service exceptional, and we are at a lodge where animals are everywhere! Tomorrow we are off to the Falls and a cruise on the Zambezi River….hippos! Crocs!

More from Lake Travis

June 8, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

Ah, the longer we stay on Lake Travis, the more I like it! Lakeway is a wealthy, small town with all the amenities, easy to get around in, and deer are sighted on every drive in the neighborhood. The only real issue is how low the lake is. There are boathouses and stairs just sprawled on the ground in so many places….Villa de Vistas has a dock that is in the water, but it is quite a way down, then back up, to get to it. I made the trip with the dogs today, and we swam in the lake. I mean, how can I come to the lake and not swim?

Oh, Villa de Vistas also has a wine cellar where they do wine tastings for their guests! As I said, Villa de Vistas has everything you could possibly want…if you are a cook, they have an herb garden you can harvest your herbs from! They also have a home theater. complete with an old popcorn maker, soda, and a candy case! The owners have thought of everything, and it is all executed in grand style.

We enjoyed a lovely dinner at Hudson’s on the Bend with Jeri and Michael of Villa de Vistas. We absolutely loved the restaurant, it is rustically charming with an elegant flair in its decor. They grow their own herbs, indeed, herbs were growing on the roof! The excellent sauces are for sale in the restaurant store, and so are cooking classes held by the chefs. The food is tasty as well as tastefully presented. I had a Crab cake with corn, cheese and avocado….delicious! If you are visiting Lake Travis, you should give it a try, I highly recommend it. There is also an Italian Beef place here called Chitown, as in Chicago, Chi town, great for lunch, especially if you are from Chicago like my husband is! I’ve never met someone from Chicago who did not love Italian Beef….Randy cannot go by an Italian Beef place without stopping for one. I, on the other hand, don’t eat meat, so they certainly do not tempt me.

Tomorrow we head back to the Big “D”, but I do believe we will be back to visit!

Travel Adventures!

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