Adventures in Africa Archives

A Summary of my Volunteer Trip to Tofo Mozambique

September 1, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

June 2

Ah, I now have to time to catch up on my blog as I fly over Mozambique, headed to Joburg. On Monday I came down with a stomach bug. It must have been the stomach bug of all time, because I have never felt so sick in my life. I was sick enough to call upstairs for a doctor, and the owner of Peri Peri was at the guesthouse with his wife. I think I have already blogged about how he tested me for malaria, and no, I don’t have it. My CPAP was out, and most people here seem to think it is some kind of oxygen or ventilator, I guess people in the rest of the world don’t have CPAPs or sleep apnea, mine gives me a solid night of sleep but isn’t a big deal. Where did I get the bug? Who knows, but for a month I shared regulators, fins, wetsuits, shower and bath facilities, water, and various other things. I also spent several hours with little children. It would be easy to pick something up. Either that, or I ate something. I slept the next day, and then Randy arrived. By Thursday I felt 110%, better than I have felt for years. However, the owner of Peri Peri saw me ill, and even though I feel great, I was not allowed to dive on my last day. I was quite upset, but I have put it in perspective. As I have already written here, the diving was extremely challenging, and the first two dives were very poorly done on my part. I did adjust, and dove for the rest of the 3 weeks without issues. My last dive would have been no problem at all and a wonderful finish to my trip, but I didn’t argue although I was deeply upset. I did everything on the trip I was scheduled or asked to do and more.

The dive conditions varied tremendously, from the worst current and visibility I have ever been in to maybe 30 ft visibility with surge. Not easy. The diving turned out to be a great disappointment as I did not see any mantas while diving, no whale sharks, leopard sharks, bowmouth guitar sharks, leatherback turtles…. I came on this trip for many reasons, but one of them was to see these animals. I have seen documentaries and read that Tofo is the epicenter of mantas and year round whale sharks. Perhaps it used to be, but I was there for one month, and the only one of these creatures I saw was a manta while snorkeling. I saw more dead sharks and rays than live ones, sadly enough.

My first manta! — One of two mantas I saw in month!

In summary, I am quite pleased with my trip in most ways, and I really enjoyed being there, the scientific community is terrific, but I doubt I will return to Tofo. My son Wes would love it and do great there, and his girlfriend Carisa (who is an organic farmer) could teach or start farming in Mozambique. As for me, I’m thinking Thailand or Egypt or Indonesia…..on a luxury live aboard, haha.

This trip was a challenge I set for myself. Never in my life had I travelled so far, alone, never have I volunteered on such a project. I wasn’t trying to prove anything, not even to myself, but I was challenging myself and my lifestyle, and the fact that I have hit midlife. My youngest is a senior in college, and I am done raising my family (well, as finished as a mother can ever be). I enjoy my career immensely as I care about, and like, my students. I do not want to just “age gracefully” now and wait for grandchildren so I can bake cookies (hardly my style), this is the time of life for me and my interests.

Many of us do not really know who we are until we are older, and in some respects it is true of me. I have never really fit anywhere. When I was a child and a teen I tried to fit in. In my twenties I appeared to blend in, and by my 30s I was comfortable. All of my life I have admired those people who seem to have it all together, who seem to fit into groups with ease: everything is in its right place, it is all organized and planned ahead, things are not left behind, forgotten, or broken, they don’t forget their weight belt or to put the jacket on the tank before hooking up the regulator. Shit, I just remembered I forgot my prescription mask at the dive center. Sometimes I make myself crazy! I’ll ask Ben to bring it back to the US and mail it to me. Anyway, I do so admire those got-it-all-together people, but I have come to full acceptance that I will never be one of them, no matter what I do or how hard I try. I leave things, forget items, drop and break things. I trip on flat surfaces and go flying, I fall down on boats and buses as well as off of boats and buses. I am accident prone, ever since I can remember I have had cuts and bruises with no concept of how I got them. I am the true version of the absent minded professor of the old Walt Disney movie (it is an old one, I really cannot remember it except for the professor who barely knew where he was most of the time). We are who we are. All of those things about me anger me, embarrass me, and frustrate me, but really, I need to just accept it. I’m better when I take my Focalin for ADHD, but I didn’t know if it would be okay while diving so I didn’t take it. I do have many redeeming qualities. One of those is a commitment to service, to giving back, to helping others. My volunteer mission in Mozambique served 3 purposes: to challenge myself physically and test my endurance, to give my time and energy to a worthwhile project, and to learn even more about my passion for marine animals (any animals, really). So how did I do?

Stairs of Death, a challenge met and mastered.

I was successful meeting physical challenges I thought were beyond me. After the 10 year debacle of my back surgery, MRSA infection, and other various health nuisances (nothing serious or fatal, thanks be) which included this awful weight gain, I doubted my physical endurance and capability. I have just spent a month walking miles a day, climbing up steep hills or stairs, pushing a zodiac into the water, diving in tough conditions, snorkeling in a sometimes choppy sea, and here is what I have to say: bring it on, I am ready to do anything. I have lost weight, gained strength, and found more confidence in myself than I have ever known. I’m ready to go anywhere, and I am really looking forward to my girl’s trip to Lake Tahoe in August, because I have no qualms now about climbing, hiking, or rafting. Of course, I’ll probably fall on my face doing it, but that’s ok, situation normal. I have always wanted to go sky diving….I wonder if it is as fun as jumping off a cliff to handglide or cage dive with Great Whites? I think I’ll put it on my to-do list.

I wish I could have contributed more to the whale shark project. I actually do more surveys and logging for REEF on my own than I did at this project. I enjoyed learning about the databases for whale sharks and other animals, and I always have confidence in my mental ability to do those kinds of things well and in a very thorough manner. Once you learn the old Scientific Method in grad school, you never lose it. I did learn some new information, but really, not a whole lot, and that was a bit disappointing too. I had hoped for more real research activity.

So, the success of my trip was personal success, and I am happy with that. I didn’t complain about anything, though a few times I wanted to. I kept my mouth shut, another amazing feat for me since my foot is usually stuck in my mouth (or as my dad used to say, “don’t let your mouth get your ass in trouble”.) The other major success of this trip is due to my housemates and fellow volunteers. They were wonderful to me, and I enjoyed my time with them very much. It is amazing how quickly bonding takes place! I am old enough to be the parent of some of them, but I will consider them as friends for the rest of my life. I hope they all come and visit me in Cozumel or Dallas! I’d love to dive with them in a relaxed holiday environment. Of course, I am always planning a trip to Europe, and now I have even more reason: Daniela in Munich, Leslie in Basel, Marcel in Zurich, Felix in London…..) Age is really just a number, it does not define who you are or what you can do. Besides, 50 is the new 40!

SO. I am on my way to Joburg with Randy, who had a bit of trouble with the walking and hills in Tofo, and tomorrow we will set out for Arusha, Tanzania and a new adventure! BRING IT ON.

Dives and Casa do Mar in Tofo, Mozambique

August 27, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

May 28

I spent a miserable night last night. On my way to bed I discovered that our electrical outlet quit working, so I had to go downstairs and sleep in the middle, airless, windowless, storeroom/bedroom. The mattress (if you can even call it that) was so thin I could feel the bed slats, so I decided to put the mattress on the floor. I did get a fan and had it on all night. I woke up aching. I then changed, went upstairs and turned on the faucet…no water. Shit. So I decided to check into Casa Do Mar a day early. I then did a two tank dive this morning. The ocean was a bit rough, with swells. The first reef was 30 minutes out, called Outback. No mantas, leopard sharks, bowmouth guitar sharks, leatherbacks or whale sharks. Sigh. But I did get some nice photos. The dive went quickly, there were only 4 divers, the leader and the “sweeper”, but one of the men blew through his air quickly and had to go up, then the other guy had an equipment problem, so after 20 minutes we were ascending. It is a deep dive, maybe 90 feet. After the dive we cruised around looking for whale sharks, but no luck. Second dive was called Giant, also deep. We were headed up after 20 minutes. You can’t stay on those deep dives very long, especially after you’ve already done a deep dive.

After we returned I went directly to Casa Do Mar and checked in. I went to the house and packed up quickly, had one of the guys from the guesthouse come and get my bags, then I spent a glorious 15 minutes under a hot shower. Ahhhh. The bed is heaven…it even has more than one pillow, and the mattress is great. I fell asleep pretty quickly, then Leslie knocked at my door to tell me they were having a barbeque at 630p. I am having electrical plug issues here, they don’t have an adapter for a 3 prong US plug. I’ll have to figure that one out.

Right now I am sitting on the balcony of the guesthouse, listening to the surf, and enjoying the breeze. The volunteer house is always hot and stuffy, so this is a treat. I am so happy to be back in the land of amenities.

I have learned so much from this trip, although not what I thought I would learn. I have done some small amount of research, but there have been no whale sharks to id or tag, and only two manta rays on an ocean safari. I have added to my knowledge of humanity. I have come late to the realization that life goes on no matter what you do and what you try to do. People are born, they suffer, and some suffer more than others. Happiness is a moment here and there, it is not a stable state of mind. I have seen cruelty in Mozambique, but there is cruelty everywhere. I have seen terrible poverty and ignorance, but again, it exists everywhere. For as long as there is no general will among people or nations to change the conditions of poverty, ignorance and cruelty, there will be no change. What can we do as individuals to alleviate some of the pain in the world? Well, I know what I can do, though it is small. I plan to give money to Suzanne and Martina, volunteers at the orphanage in Inhambane, so they can buy fruit for the children. The children eat rice and water, no fresh vegetables, no fresh fruit, no milk. So, those children will receive fresh fruit. The money donated to the orphanage seems to disappear into the pockets of the employees, and there is a “chef” who prepares the rice, but we don’t want the fruit to go into their hands. It will be purchased daily from the market and given to the children during lunchtime. It is a small thing, but it will help those malnourished children. I can also bring awareness to the plight of our ocean, and our marine ecosystem.

I cannot fix it myself, but I can tell others about it. I am seeing the result of overfishing, of targeting sharks and rays on this coast…there are few left. DON’T EAT SHARK FIN SOUP. It is so disgusting, anyway. Shark fins should stay on sharks, and sharks should stay in the ocean where they belong.

Parties, babies and owls

August 25, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

May 26

Travels with Tam — Suzanne and I at Tofo Tofo

Well, I missed my dive this morning. No, I wasn’t hung over, I felt ill during the night, as did my roomie, Leslie. After imbibing a lot of alcoholic substances, the group went to Tofo Tofo, a restaurant in the village. Dinner was delicious, I think it was the ice that made me ill. Ice can be a danger as we all know. I should have stuck with the bottle. I managed to “sneak” away after dinner, Daniela had quite a few cocktails and insisted I go to Fatimas with them to dance with her.

I asked Patty to distract her, which wasn’t a problem, and I headed home, taking the shortcut through the woods. Leslie insisted on walking me to the fork, and it is good that she did, because I would have missed it. It was a fun evening! Some of them cannot remember much about it today, though. LOL.

Suzanne is the only housemate who is not on the ocean project, she is volunteering at the orphanage in Inhambane. She has told some very sad stories, and today the children came to Casa Barry for a day by the ocean. I watched the children play for while, and then held and fed a little girl named Denicea. She has bedsores from not being turned over often enough in her crib, and her nappy (diaper) was basically a dishcloth. At 8 months old she can barely hold her head up. There were 4 or 5 babies there, and they did not cry or react at all, they just sat there. They have learned that crying or cooing gets them no attention, so they don’t make a peep.

By the end Denicea and the 7 month old baby (who was no bigger than a 2 month old) Katie was holding were reacting a bit, smiling a little, and cooing. They want the food just shoveled into their mouths they are so hungry. The other, older, children, who live on rice and water, enjoyed hamburgers and chips with soda and ice cream. I’m sure a few of them will be ill tomorrow, but they really enjoyed it today. Many of them did not know what the vegetables were on their plates. Needless to say, it was a sobering event, although it is not helpful to be sad around these children….I saved that for after they left. I took a long walk on the beach. I plan to give money to Martina, a volunteer at the orphanage who is married to Steve, the dive shop owner here, so she can buy fresh fruits for the children.

Donations directly to the orphanage do not get to the children, sadly enough, so it has to go in a roundabout fashion. How can anything ever change here, or anywhere else? There just seems to be so little will to make improvements, for anyone or anything. I admire the volunteers and scientists so much, whether they are working for the environment, the animals, the children, or education, they work against impossible odds.

A salad for dinner, made by Daniela, followed by exhaustion and the desire for early bed. However, the electrical outlet has stopped working in our room, so I am moving downstairs. GRRRR. I am certainly not moving all of my stuff, and I will ask at Casa Do Mar if they have a room for tomorrow night. I’m ready for some pampering, a washing machine and an air conditioner!

This evening Leslie came in to tell me there was an owl in the yard. Sure enough, an owl was sitting on one of the fence posts. It makes me terribly sad. Owls are highly emotional birds, and are very, very bonded to their mate. Often they can be monogamous and have been known to die of melancholy when their mate is lost. I’m sure the owl of tonight is wondering why his mate’s scent ends at our yard. It just kills me, and the memory of what happened serves to make me angry and sad at the same time.

Tomorrow, I dive.

Discover the story of An African Owl and a Beautiful dive

August 14, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

May 23

African Owl.

Today has been so eventful I really don’t know where to start. I guess I will start this morning. Leslie (my roomie) and I walked down to the market, I wanted to buy a couple of things. She had to leave for an ocean safari after 30 minutes or so, at which point every guy in the market bombarded me. They need to eat, feed their kids, they are my friend, they make good price….omg. It went on and on. And yes, I bought. I also ran away, down the road to Fatimas, a sort of beach bar/restaurant. Two guys followed me, but when I shook my head they left. I guess they didn’t want to get the Fatima staff upset by hassling their customers. Fatimas is nice…a lovely place to sit and just watch the waves roll in. I had breakfast, then walked back through the market, up the stairs of death and to the house. I don’t know how many miles a day I’m putting in, but it is miles, up and down hills. One cannot avoid hills in Tofo.

I chatted with Katie about her dive for a while, she is one of the project coordinators. I went out onto the porch and saw Daniela talking to some guys across the road. She called up saying there was a bird hurt, so I went down. A group of 4 or 5 men were lighting a fire. I looked down and there was a beautiful, green eyed, tawny owl on the ground, with what looked like a badly broken wing. The men said they were going to burn it alive. Felix came down around that time, he speaks Portuguese and began to talk to them. We tried to explain that owls are good, they eat mice and other rodents. They didn’t care, they said the owl was evil and they were killing it. I don’t really remember what Felix was talking to them about, but I knelt to take a look at her. A beautiful owl. Felix let the men know we were not going to allow the burning, and then they walked off, but not before the whole neighborhood came out to watch. Daniela gave me her blanket and I threw it over the bird. She scooped her up and we carried her to our back yard. I uncovered her, and she tried to fly, but couldn’t. We called vets and found one in Inhambane who said she would take a look at her. I put a blanket over her, picked her up and put her in a large plastic container which I covered with the blanket. Birds know it is time to rest in the dark, I’ve always put sheets or blankets over bird cages at night. After she settled down a bit, we gave her water and a piece of bacon. It was time for Daniela, Ross (the other coordinator) and I to do an afternoon dive, so after putting the owl in the dining/work area so Katie and everyone else could make sure the cat didn’t get at her, we left. The vet gave us an appointment at 530p in Inhambane.

Tofo, Mozambique — Gorgeous anemone on Marble Arch

Off to the dive. We went to Marble Arch where the visibility was awful, maybe 25 feet. I am posting a few pictures of what we saw on the dive. It is so difficult to take photos….there is so much plankton in the water, and there is surge. After we came back, we beached the boat, and up the stairs of death again. It was close to time when we needed to go to Inhambane. We managed to get a “chappa” (taxi) and we hired it only for ourselves, we certainly didn’t need 25 people in it with the owl. We went to the vet, Sonia, and she was lovely. She called a couple who run a lodge here and love birds, and they agreed to take her. The vet readied everything for putting the wing back together. Katie, Felix and I were overjoyed that she would be cared for, but then we all saw the damage. The wing was not only broken, it had been ripped off of her body and it was hanging by a very small tissue. It would be like if someone tore your arm off and it was hanging by a ligament. The area under the wing had been torn from her body. The vet worked on it a while, but at last said the damage was just too great, the owl would never fly again, and the wing would probably have to come off. I wish this had happened in the states where I could have taken her home to care for her, but obviously, I am not home. The poor thing was in so much pain. I stroked her head and her feathers were so soft and light as air. The four of us discussed the situation, and decided to put her to sleep. I have never seen damage to an animal like that, they were beating her with sticks and pulled her wing out of her body. After the owl was gone, Katie, Felix and I rode back to the house. I was very, very upset, of course.

I have seen much cruelty and ignorance here in Tofo. They kill and slaughter sharks right on the beach, cutting off their fins and selling off the meat. I realize how poor they are, and at least they believe they are just fishing and sharks are fair. But those men with the owl…it was nothing but cruelty. No one eats owls, there was no reason in the world to hurt her. But there they were, laughing, hitting her, and starting a fire. The fire was already lit as I came out into the road to see her. It was very tense as we wondered what they were going to do to us, at first they had no intention of letting her go. I am horrified and saddened by the pleasure they took in hurting the poor owl. New figures came out today about the populations of mantas and whale sharks here: whale sharks are down 65%, mantas 87%. No wonder I haven’t seen a whale shark, and haven’t seen a manta on a dive.

I have always been idealistic and believed there was hope for every creature on this earth, but it seems these animals have no chance. I respect and admire the biologists and conservationists here for continuing to try, but when the government won’t listen or do anything, there is little hope the people here will do anything. I don’t know, what can you do to fight against this? I wish I still believed that people are good at heart and mean to do the right thing…I am beginning to realize that some people really are sadistic and cruel, and have no care for anything or anyone but self. It is so late, and I am tired, but I needed to write this blog. I will carry the memory of what I saw today with me always. She was so beautiful, a small owl, there was no reason for this but those men enjoyed torturing that poor creature.

I am with Walt Whitman:

“I think I could turn and live with the animals, they are so placid and self contained;

I stand and look at them long and long.

They do not sweat and whine about their condition;

They do not lie awake in the dark and weep for their sins;

They do not make me sick discussing their duty to God;

Not one is dissatisfied-not one is demented with the mania of owning things;

Not one kneels to another, nor his kind that lived thousands of years ago;

Not one is responsible or industrious over the whole earth.”

― Walt Whitman

Shark Week

August 11, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

May 20, 2012

Back in Tofo after a LONG and bumpy ride back in a van that rides rougher than a go-cart! Ouch.

Of course, in the 2 days I was gone a whale shark was spotted on a dive, a tiger shark, and a gray reef shark. Apparently the strong currents bring them in. Of course, the flip side is that the visability was 4 meters (12 feet). To see a tiger shark within 12 feet would be a harrowing experience I think, but often when you are afraid of something, if you dive with it once, you feel fine about it. I actually jumped in the water the other day when we sighted a Hammerhead Shark. Sadly, I didn’t really see it. I’ve always wanted to see one. So I am unsure about the way the rest of the week will play out. Of course I want to see things and dive, but it is all so difficult when it is calm so I can’t imagine it choppy. Of course the first day or two I dove it was fairly choppy, but I have my “diving fins” now (as opposed to sea legs, haha) so it will probably be better. There is an Indian ocean website called windguru, and winds are rated from calm to storms, and they don’t dive if it is too windy. We’ll just have to play it by ear.

I just did a Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (personality “test”) on Patty, and she turned out to be exactly my guess: ISTJ, the Inspector! LOL. She’s awesome, and she laughed through it as it is completely accurate. I really like most everyone in the house though I know some better than others. It has really been enjoyable, getting to know them all. Patty is an American, from San Francisco, one of my very favorite cities. I’ve been giving my housemates the MBTI, with interesting results. So far we have an ISTJ, 2 ESFJ’s, an INTP (Cooper, your type!), and myself, an INFP. Rather an interesting collection of people. And Yay! I have a reason to go to San Francisco now! And I have reasons to go to London, Zurich, and Munich…and the Seychelles…and………just resting up for the week and getting ready for what it will bring!

May 21

Knocked on the head by a Great White Shark!

The big event today was a non-event….nothing on the ocean safari. Two whale sharks have been sighted at Barra Point, so we are going to head that direction tomorrow. Also, four Great Whites have been sighted not far from here, apparently it is unusual to see them in these waters. After my last experience with one I can’t say I’m anxious to meet one in open water, the cage was rather helpful last time! Today it rained, and it is cold for the first time since I’ve been here. Chilly. It will be cold on the water tomorrow. The water temperature has dropped 4 degrees since I’ve been in Tofo, so winter is coming (Stark words). Rain and wind shut down the power here in Tofo, so we’ve been without power a few times today.

An observation: The car ride to and from Vilanculas was the first time I’ve really had time to think since I’ve been here. It is always so busy with dives, data entry, ocean safaris, or people in and out, there is no time for reflection. I did have a few introspective moments during the 8 hour round trip car ride….watching the people on the roads and seeing the villages where they live. People in town do seem to live a bit better, and there is the occasional stucco or brick house, but for the most part, these people have nothing in a material sense. Their huts are not as big as our living room, made of palm fronds woven tightly to keep out the rain. Most of their time seems to be spent outside of the huts, under a shade tree, or around a fire cooking. Water is brought from wells. Today is Sunday and there were people all over the roads, in their Sunday clothes, headed from or to church. I feel certain it is a major socializing event, much like the market where they sell goods if they are close enough to town. Their reality is harsh, and their needs simple: survive, feed yourself and your family, have babies, and die young. I’ve heard it is estimated that one in five in Mozambique are HIV positive. I couldn’t survive a week in their world, I feel sure I would die of some infection or virus pretty quickly given the water and unsanitary conditions. One of the million chickens walking around would give me bird flu. It is a lesson in appreciating the things that you do have….running water, electricity, clean water (relatively)….it is disturbing to see how poor the people are here, and I realize, what do I have to complain about?

Villancula on a shoestring

August 4, 2013 By Tam Warner Leave a Comment

Vilancula on a shoestring. It took from 9a until 2p to get here, we are staying at a backpackers hostel. Not exactly what I am used to….but for two nights I can survive. We stopped on the way for a picnic where Ben found a chameleon. Everyone photographed it repeatedly. THEN Ben spotted a green tree snake. I said, I think that snake is venomous, but they said it was not. Photos again! Then Felix checked it on his iphone…and yes, it is a very poisonous snake whose bite can be fatal. I’m grateful no one grabbed it. Right now I am in the “restaurant” of the backpackers, and a momma dog has 9 pups in here. They are so cute, but life is too tough here for these poor dogs. People cannot take care of themselves let alone animals.

Back from snorkeling. Apparently, they do not know what clear visability is in Mozambique. Oh well, it was an interesting trip over on a wooden boat that looked a hundred years old, and it had a campfire on it to cook on. The mast was made of wood…and I mean, it used to be a tree. I actually fell up and into the boat. Yes, it is possible to do. It is all very primitive, and a fascinating study. Overall, I would say the trip really wasn’t worth the trouble it took to get here, but it is an experience. I have never traveled this way, staying at backpackers in a closet like room with 4 bunkbeds and no hot water in the shower. We did ask about hot water…and they brought us water in a bucket that had been boiled. As I said, I have never traveled in this manner before, and I am keeping my mouth shut and just going with the flow. I don’t want to be the American bitch who complains about everything, so I choose to be amused instead. After all, I am learning a new culture, new way of diving, new way of living and eating, and getting to know new people. Overall, a great experience for me. Very eye opening in many respects. Absolutely no regrets.

Bazaruto with Ben, Marcel and "Messiah" — Bazaruto with Ben, Marcel and “Messiah”

I thought the poverty in Mexico was bad….it is as bad as the worst poverty in Mexico. People live in huts with no running water, no electricity, no easy access to medical care or the ability to travel very far. For the very poor, life is extremely hard in Mozambique, and it is no wonder the life expectancy is mid-forties here. You see very few old people. It is difficult to put what I am seeing into words, and I hesitate to take photos…I don’t want to make them feel like their poverty is worth taking photos of. It is distressing, and certainly I feel like I am roughing it, but I am living like royalty in comparison. I would not survive this kind of poverty, I am sure I would never have made it past 2 years old. One’s immune system has to be iron here.

My luxury suite at the "backpackers" — My luxury suite at the “backpackers”

Tomorrow it is the long drive back to Tofo, then a “work” week ahead I’m going to go on the ocean safaris and do the dives required, but I doubt I will do extra diving. There is abundant life on the reefs, amazing life, but I am a bit disappointed that in nearly 2 weeks I have yet to see a whale shark, and have seen only two mantas, and no mantas on dives. Hopefully there will be something next week. Mantas used to be abundant here, but with a population that is down 87% in 10 years, they are not abundant anymore. I don’t think Randy will like the diving….it is much harder than the California diving we did, and he did not enjoy that. I can hear “this is bullshit”, a famous Randy phrase. It would be worth it if there were mantas on every dive, but as I said, I’ve been diving every day for a week and I’ve seen nada. The weather is supposed to turn bad next week, and I have decided that if it is really rough on the ocean I will not dive. I can only imagine how difficult it would be in bad weather, but I don’t think I will take the chance to find out. Hopefully, it will remain nice and calm (for here). Time for bed…or should I say board? The mattress is less than 5 inches thick, and a damned rooster crows from about 4a until 8a. I might decide to eat chicken if I stayed here much longer! Yes, a new experience for Tam!

Adventures in Africa

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